Lecciona beach: a guide to Viareggio's wildest free beach

Beaches & beach clubs · 4 min read

Picture Versilia and you'll probably imagine neat rows of colourful umbrellas. And that's fair: most of the coast is taken up by beach clubs. But between Viareggio and Torre del Lago there's a stretch of shore that feels like another world: Lecciona beach. No cabins, no sunloungers, just sand, dunes and pine forest. Here's what it is, how to get there and how to behave — because it's beautiful precisely because it's fragile.

What is the Lecciona?

The Lecciona lies south of Viareggio, towards Torre del Lago Puccini, inside the Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli Nature Park. It's one of the few sandy stretches of the Tuscan coast still in its natural state: the dunes are covered in pioneer plants that hold them in place and protect them from erosion. Together with the Darsena area, it's considered the last beach near Versilia left free and without facilities.

Behind the beach is the Lecciona Nature Reserve, which the Park describes as a trail through all the main habitats of the so-called Macchia Lucchese: beach and dunes, the stabilised dune with prickly juniper, back-dune ponds and finally the woods, with holm oaks, pines, alders, ash trees, oaks and poplars. The "lame" — hollows that fill with water in winter — are one of its most distinctive features.

No umbrellas, just dunes and pine woods: Versilia as it used to be.

How to get there

The Park recommends starting from Viale dei Tigli, the long tree-lined road between Viareggio and Torre del Lago, right in front of Villa Borbone, where there's a Park visitor centre. From there you head towards the sea along signposted paths and boardwalks. The Park suggests about two and a half hours on foot for the full trail, but you can simply walk to the beach.

Local tip: come by bike. Viale dei Tigli is lovely to cycle, and you'll skip the parking stress on busy summer days.

The rules

The Park has published a code of conduct for the Lecciona. The main points:

• Don't walk on the dunes: use the marked paths to reach the beach.
• Stay within 30 metres of the waterline and don't lie down in the dune area.
• No camping and no fires: tents among the dunes are forbidden, and park rangers carry out checks with fines and confiscations.
• Take your rubbish home, cigarette butts included, and choose reusable bottles and materials.
• Leave driftwood, seaweed and logs where the sea left them: they help keep the dunes in place.
• Don't collect starfish or other creatures, and keep dogs on a lead where they're allowed.
• Use mineral-filter sunscreen, which pollutes less.

Volunteers also monitor Caretta caretta sea turtle nests on the beach: if you see a fenced-off area, keep out.

What to bring

There's no bar around the corner or umbrella for hire at the Lecciona. Pack as if for a short hike:

• a light umbrella or sun shelter (to use near the water, not among the dunes);
• plenty of water in a reusable bottle, fruit and a packed lunch;
• a bag to carry your rubbish back;
• comfortable shoes for the trail and the hot sand.

Lightweight beach umbrella and cool bag (Amazon.it)

Good to know: the naturist area

Part of the Lecciona is also known as a beach used by naturists. If that's not for you, just be aware and pick another stretch; if it is, check the designated areas and respect others.

When to go

In summer the Lecciona gets busy, especially at weekends and in August. Early morning or late afternoon, the light on the dunes is gorgeous and the beach is quieter. Don't overlook it off-season either: in spring and autumn the reserve trail is a wonderful walk, and in winter the flooded "lame" attract birds.

In short

The Lecciona is the place for sea without beach clubs, real nature and a bit of silence, just minutes from Viareggio. In return it asks one thing: respect. Leave it as you found it — or better.

▶

Sources: Parco San Rossore – Riserva della Lecciona · Parks.it – Decalogo Lecciona · Wikipedia · La Nazione. General information: opening times, prices and dates change, so always check the official websites.