Versilia beaches: beach club or free beach? How to choose

Beaches & beach clubs · 4 min read

Versilia is a long strip of pale sand between the Tyrrhenian Sea and the Apuan Alps rising behind it. For first-timers, though, the question is always the same: where should I go to the beach? Here's how beaches work here, the main resorts and how to choose based on what you're after.

How the "bagni" work

In Versilia locals say "andare al bagno" rather than "going to the beach". A bagno is a beach club: a licensed stretch of sand with rows of umbrellas and sunloungers, changing cabins, showers, often a bar or restaurant, and lifeguards. Many have historic names and loyal regulars who rent the same tent or umbrella every summer.

You can rent an umbrella for a day, a week or the whole season. Prices vary hugely between resorts, rows (the front row costs more) and dates: always ask the price first, especially in August.

In Versilia you don't go to the beach: you go to the bagno.

What about free beaches?

Free beaches do exist, but they're a minority, because most of the coast is under concession. In Viareggio the most famous is the Lecciona, a natural beach in the Migliarino San Rossore Massaciuccoli Park. Other free stretches are scattered between the beach clubs, usually smaller and marked by signs from the town council. Remember that local bylaws still apply on free beaches (for example on dogs or water safety).

The resorts, from south to north

Viareggio

Versilia's largest town. The seafront, the Passeggiata, runs parallel to the beach clubs: a few steps take you from your umbrella to cafés, shops and town life. Ideal if you want sea and city together. To the south, towards Torre del Lago, the coast turns wilder, with pine woods and the Lecciona.

Lido di Camaiore

Part of the municipality of Camaiore, it has a long promenade with a cycle path and a pier over the sea. It's often chosen by families looking for a more relaxed vibe than central Viareggio.

Marina di Pietrasanta

Pietrasanta's coastline includes Focette, Motrone, Tonfano and Fiumetto. It's also home to the Parco della Versiliana, a large pine forest that hosts talks and events in summer. A good pick if you like alternating sea and shade.

Forte dei Marmi

Versilia's most exclusive and best-known resort, with its pier and the Fortino in the main square. Beach clubs are often elegant and well kept. Perfect for a "chic" day, maybe combined with a stroll through the shops — see our day trip to Forte, Pietrasanta and Torre del Lago.

How to choose: 5 questions

1. Comfort or nature? A beach club for convenience, the Lecciona for wild sea.
2. Travelling with kids? The seabed in Versilia is generally sandy and shelves gently: choose a club with lifeguards and family facilities.
3. Getting around by bike? Promenades and cycle paths link many resorts: you can try a different beach every day.
4. August or June? In high season book your umbrella ahead; in June and September there's more space and the sea is still pleasant.
5. Do sunsets matter? The coast faces west: the sun sets over the sea. Keep the last hour of light free.

Local tips

• The libeccio (south-westerly wind) can whip up big waves: always respect the lifeguard's flag.
• The sand is scorching at midday: flip-flops at all times.
• Many beach clubs have restaurants open to non-members too: lunch with a sea view is a classic.

Beach towel, sunscreen and flip-flops (Amazon.it)

Sources: Wikipedia – Versilia · Wikipedia – Spiaggia della Lecciona · Visit Tuscany – Versilia. General information: opening times, prices and dates change, so always check the official websites.