What to eat in Versilia: local dishes and how to choose where to eat

Where to eat · 3 min read

Versilia's cooking sits between sea and mountains: on one side the fish of the Tyrrhenian, on the other the rustic food of the hills and the Apuan Alps, with its pulses, olive oil and flours. This isn't a restaurant ranking but a compass: what to order and how to tell if a place is worth it.

Seafood dishes

• Cacciucco alla viareggina: the fish soup that symbolises the coast, lighter than Livorno's. See our cacciucco guide.
• Spaghetti alla trabaccolara: a seafood pasta linked to the tradition of Viareggio's fishermen and their trabaccolo boats.
• Spaghetti with razor clams: the tube-shaped molluscs typical of sandy beaches.
• Fried small fish and mixed grill: simple, best ordered when the fish is the catch of the day.

Between the sea and the Apuan Alps, Versilia's cooking follows the seasons.

From the hinterland

Drive just a few kilometres inland and the food changes: vegetable and bean soups, savoury pies, mushrooms and chestnuts in autumn, and cured meats. The province of Lucca is also known for Garfagnana spelt, a PGI product, and Tuscany for its extra virgin olive oil. A trip to Lucca is a chance to taste Lucchese cooking.

Where to eat: the areas

• Viareggio's Darsena: the harbour and shipyard district, historically tied to fishing. This is where to look for a seafaring atmosphere.
• Passeggiata and town centre: lots of eateries and cafés, handy for a quick lunch or dinner after sunset.
• Beach clubs: many have restaurants with tables on the sand. Lunch "at the bagno" is a Versilia classic.
• Hills and villages: towards Camaiore, Massarosa or inland Pietrasanta you'll find trattorias serving food from the land.

How to pick a good place: 7 signs

1. Short, seasonal menu: a place offering the catch of the day is often more reliable than one with fifty fixed dishes.
2. The catch of the day is stated verbally or on a blackboard.
3. Fish priced by weight: if a dish is priced "per etto" (100 g), always ask how much it weighs before ordering, to avoid surprises on the bill.
4. Frozen products flagged: by law they must be indicated on the menu, usually with an asterisk. Read the notes.
5. Places locals go, especially off-season.
6. Book ahead in August and on Carnival weekends, also for slow dishes like cacciucco.
7. Recent reviews: look at the last few months, not a ten-year average.

Eating on a budget

• At lunchtime many places offer simpler menus.
• A seafood pasta to share plus a fritto can be enough for two.
• For a snack, the focaccia shops and bakeries in town are a great alternative.

Food to take home

Extra virgin olive oil, spelt, Tuscan wine: these are the most popular souvenirs. Buy direct from producers or in local food shops.

Tuscan cookbook (Amazon.it)

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Sources: Visit Tuscany – Sapori di Versilia · Wikipedia – Farro della Garfagnana · Wikipedia – Viareggio. General information: opening times, prices and dates change, so always check the official websites.