Versilia in TascaVersilia nightlife: aperitivo, where to go out and the story of La Capannina
Versilia has a long tradition of summer nights. From the 1930s to today, the coast between Viareggio and Forte dei Marmi has been one of the icons of Italian nightlife. Here are the areas to go out, how a typical evening unfolds and a slice of history.
A bit of history: La Capannina
The most famous venue is La Capannina di Franceschi in Forte dei Marmi. It opened on 15 August 1929, when Achille Franceschi turned an old beach hut into a little bar with tables, a counter and a gramophone. It was an instant hit: in the 1930s nobles and intellectuals such as Montale, Ungaretti and Repaci were regulars.
After a fire, it was rebuilt in 1939 to a design by architect Maurizio Tempestini. In the boom years it became the haunt of industrialists, film stars and singers — the world portrayed in the film Sapore di mare and in the summer hits of the 1960s. Today it's considered one of the longest-running clubs in Europe.
Since 1929 La Capannina has told the story of Italian summers.
A typical evening
- Sunset aperitivo: the coast faces west and the sun sets over the sea. Many beach clubs and seafront bars come alive at exactly that hour.
- Dinner: late — in summer often after 9 pm.
- A stroll: Viareggio's Passeggiata or central Forte dei Marmi, with gelato and window-shopping.
- After dinner: music bars, live music venues or a club.
The areas
- Viareggio – Passeggiata: the most versatile choice. Bars, historic cafés, venues for all ages and everything within walking distance.
- Viareggio – Darsena and Torre del Lago: Torre del Lago is also known for its seafront nightlife, especially popular with the LGBTQ+ community.
- Lido di Camaiore and Marina di Pietrasanta: plenty of venues on the promenade and in the beach clubs, with a more laid-back feel.
- Forte dei Marmi: the elegant night out, with historic venues and the centre around the Fortino.
Events and live music
In summer an evening can be cultural too: the Puccini Festival in Torre del Lago stages open-air opera, and the Versiliana pine forest in Marina di Pietrasanta hosts talks and shows. It's all in our guide to the year's events.
Practical tips
- Leave the car if you're drinking: use taxis or night services where available, or choose an area within walking distance of where you're staying.
- Dress code: the smarter venues may have door selection. Check beforehand.
- Book a table on July and August weekends.
- Respect residents: many areas are residential, and late-night noise is regulated by local bylaws.
- Off-season many venues close or reduce their opening days: check their official channels.
And in winter?
Nightlife slows down but doesn't disappear: during Carnival, Viareggio fills with neighbourhood parties and masked balls. For the rest of the year, read what to do in Viareggio in winter.
Run a venue in Versilia?
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Frequently asked questions
When did La Capannina open?
On 15 August 1929, opened by Achille Franceschi in Forte dei Marmi.
Where do people go out at night in Viareggio?
The Passeggiata is the most versatile area; Torre del Lago is known for its seafront nightlife.
Sources: Sito ufficiale La Capannina – Storia · ANSA · Wikipedia – La Capannina. General information: opening times, prices and dates change, so always check the official websites.
